Sunday 6 November 2011

My first big crash


My crash spot, can just make out tyre tracks heading for tree and rocks
After the trail of Timbuktu my initial plan was to spend a day in Mopti recuperating, but since all three of use where together we decided to spend the day exploring Doggon country.  It would be a very chilled out and relaxed day on the bike so I thought it would be as good as a rest day.   I was also very keen to see Doggon country, it is supposed to be the one of Mali’s tourist highlights. 
Scratched up pannier
The Doggon country is set on a escarpment with 200-300 meter high cliffs to the valley below.  The people built their mud houses right next to or on top off these cliffs. Because of this they where very isolated and managed to hold on to their culture and evade the Islamic invasion.
The road there was absolutely stunning.  With nice green scenery (great after the desert) and mountains slowly building up.  The last 40km was a twisty and narrow little gravel road.  Great to play on, and this is where I crashed. 
Afternoon siesta
Market day, very colourful
I think I was probably still fatigued, and of course way too cocky after the bad roads I just survived.  I was gunning it up a hill and on top off the hill was a deep ditch with a sharp right turn.  I hit the ditch, lost my front wheel, but managed to keep my bike upright. Just.  When the road turned I went straight off, charging towards a group off rocks and a tree.  I tried to steer the bike back onto the road, but the grass was to slippery and I lost my front wheel again.  Coming to a crashing halt on the rocks.  Ouch!!  Luckily (AGAIN), no obvious serious damage.  My pannier had some big scratches, my shoulder was a bit bruised and my water bottle was laying in the road some 10 meters away.  Morton was just in front off me and he quickly stopped and helped me get the bike up.  Only after did we even think of photos.  Gutted.
Later when I serviced my bike I saw that my one pannier now sits about 2cm higher than the other and my bash plate is sitting a bit skew.  The force off the crash must have been a lot more than I initially thought it was.  The panniers did a good job thought, they stopped the bike front squashing my leg as I was lying semi underneath the bike.




Stunning Doggon 








The rest off the road to Doggon was uneventful.  I learned my lesson and gave the gravel some proper respect.  That afternoon we had a guide (they really are useful, sometimes) show us around the villages in our area.  Stunning little mud villages and colourful markets built right next to the cliffs. The views where stunning.  The kids where more than happy to play next to these huge drop offs, definitely no health and safety here.  I did feel very sorry for the villages at the bottom of the cliffs, because the guys at the top use the cliffs as their toilets.  HAHAHA.  Brilliant.
Friendly local
After Doggon country we zig zagged towards the Burkina Faso border.  Great dusty gravel road most off the way there.  Amazing how a couple of weeks ago I was desperate for gravel, but found mostly tar, and now after Timbuktu when I’m less bothered it’s mostly gravel.  Still loving it!! 
Gorgeous scenery

Kids waiting to ambush us with cries for presents
The border crossing was fantastic on both sides.  No hassles, not even a hint for bribes.  The staff where super friendly and the only hassle was the amount off time it takes to do all the paperwork.  If that is my main complaint then there really is nothing to complain about.  I still can’t believe how lucky we have been with the borders.  I think the fact that we stay away from the main crossings might help, but I also think that a lot of the West African countries are trying really hard to attract more tourists.  It seems like they have realised that friendliness goes a long way and does keep the tourists happy and coming back for more.
Living right on the cliff edge
Chilling with the kids
It is hard to think of highlights when you have only been on the road for two months, and just as hard to talk of friendly people when Africa is the smiling continent.  But Mali has brought this to a new level.  The people are fantastic (when you get away from the nagging guides), very friendly and very chatty.  We where overwhelmed with curious villagers no matter where we stopped.  I had awesome chats in the most random places, and when I was alone the people tried very hard to break the language barrier.  Maybe we where lucky, but I never felt unsafe even with all the warnings floating around.  I am very glad we made the time and effort to explore Mali, and would have loved to see more.






1 comment:

  1. Awesome! Just back from exhausting weekend casualty call. Snr

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