Thursday, 8 September 2011

Africa tomorrow!!

Yes, tomorrow I hit Africa.  So hard to believe.  Finally.   Don't know what to expect!! But I'm ready to embrace the chaos. Really curious to see how I am going to adjust to a new culture.  Especially since I am in a very vulnerable sutuation.  Very VERY EXCITED.

I spend today in Tarifa.  Was hoping to do some kite-surfing today.  Just some R&R to get my mind off bikes and Africa for the day.  Wind was completely wrong direction so that didn't happen.  Will definitely come back here though.  Miles and miles of perfect kite-surfing beach.   And because the Sahara is across the straight there is nearly always wind.

I ended up giving my bike a good service, and trying to sort out the overheating problem.  Looks like it is a combination of to much oil (who would have guessed), to much weight(really?), and some off the protective stuff I put on the bike. The protective stuff decreases the flow off air to the radiator, so I am going to try and revert back to orignal setup.  DHL is going to nail me again. Luckily nothing to serious.  Don't want to revert back to all original though, the protective stuff is there for a reason.

I must confess I learnt so much in the last few days riding.  Especially about the bike.  These bikes are very robust and supposed to be die hards, but the last few days just taught me that they are also highly tuned machines that run within very fine limits.  They need to be treated with a lot off respect.  The one thing no one told me is that every thing you change will have a big effect on other areas of the bike.  So many people are quick to say the bike needs this and that part is weak/vulnerable.  And off course there are loads off expensive solutions for every 'problem'.  The real problem is that the bike doesn't always come out beter on the other side.  I'm learning the hard way. Comes down to the big thing I've learn't so far, everything cannot be perfect when you are as limited as I am.  It's all about compromise. But compromise is so hard to make when you have not done this before.  Fingers crossed.

 I also think that is why such a trip is a very unique experience for everyone who does it.  Everybody makes different compromises and thus ends up in different situations and has a different quality experience.  The only scary thing is that you don't know if you will be able to handle the 'potential end off trip' situations. I am dying to find out if I can handle this.

The mountains off Morocco have been visible on the horizon the whole day.  Teasing me.  Taunting me.  Africa is calling.  Tomorrow the fun starts!!







Tuesday, 6 September 2011

Gremlins and admin

I've managed to fix the paypal button on the right off the blog.  Don't know why it wasn't working.  Problem is no-one's donations came through (except for Begona, thanks),  could you guys please check your accounts and try again?  Thanks.

Still cant get the spot widget to work properly.  Will keep on trying.

Had a really hard day today, did just more than 700km in the worst heat ever.  It was 31deg C, by 10:30 this morning along the coast.  In the afternoon I went through the mountains which was 10 times worse.  Not even a slight breeze to cool things down.  It was so hot that the scenery started to look like it was loosing its colour.    My bike overheated a couple of times and I couldn't go much faster than 90-100 km/h.  Very worrying, am sure the desert is going to be a lot hotter.  So I literary spend the whole day in the saddle.  And am definitely feeling worse for wear. Cold shower, dinner and a beer does help.  Amazing scenery again though.  Especially at the end off the day when I came down the plateau towards Motril (just east of Malaga).  Just the most phenomenal green valleys nestled between huge, barren cliffs with a lakes scattered in between.

Plan for tomorrow is to go down to Tariffa, and have a days break.  I need to have a look at the bike and shed some weight before I hit Africa.

Monday, 5 September 2011

Run of three's



Bad luck is supposed to occur in runs of three's. No 1 was the weight issues, no 2 was the tyre saga... and number three is...

You guessed it... My camera!!! It's gone. Woke up this morning and couldn't find it anywhere. One of the few things I don't want to do the trip without. All my photos lost (Backup... I know). Cost me a detour to Barcelona to pick one up. Blowing the budget royally. At least my run of bad luck should be over now. Fingers crossed.

So what’s been happening? After camping in Bordeaux, the plan was to go to Toulouse and then head South through the Pyrenees. Set the GPS for said path and headed off. About 2 hours after Toulouse there still was no mountains. Strange. Had a look on my map and the GPS was trying to send me around the mountains. Disaster. I was really looking forward to the big mountains. This was about 3:30 pm and I am supposed to start looking for accommodation around 5 pm. Had to make a quick decision between going around or doing a big loop to go through the mountains. If it was earlier in the day the decision would have been obvious, but it was late and I had massive storm clouds chasing me all day.  

The mountains won. What a good decision. The road leading to the mountain was small, twisty and empty. With beautiful old villages and stunning scenery. Would have stopped to take photos but I was having way to much fun (and the camera was gone). Reached the last big village before the mountains just as the first raindrops fell. Perfect timing.

I was in for a huge treat the next morning. The road going up the mountains was even more empty, small, twisty and just went on for miles and miles. It was still wet from the previous night’s rain so was quite technical and hard work with hairpin corners and reverse cambers. But so much fun!! The scenery though, was to die for. A blessing in disguise that I lost my camera otherwise I would still be there taking pictures. The road climbed all the way to about 1750m, freezing at that height. Had all my warm stuff on and I was still frozen solid. At this point I joined a bigger road with huge long sweeping corners. A lot faster than the small twisties but an amazing amount off fun.

This morning's mountain run was bliss. The bike handled like it belonged there. A ballerina at the top off its game. Still a very overweight ballerina though. Nearly lost a day to do the mountain bit, but was worth it. Could easily spend a week there.

The afternoon was just about covering miles. All along the coast, but still miles and miles of highway. Maybe tomorrow I should do less highway, but it’s still 800km to ferry. Tonight I'm camped about a hundred meters from the sea. Loving the sound off the waves. Live is good.

Best bit: Mountain run
Worst bit: Camera
Funniest bit: Sticking my earplugs so deep into my ears that I needed my Leatherman to get them out.
Distance done: Just more than 1700km

Saturday, 3 September 2011

Africansuper tramp my a**!!

So day two finished.  How do I feel how?  How is it so far?

Combination of massive disappointment and pure relief.  I tried very hard not to get too excited about the trip before it actually happened.  So I thought that the moment I leave it will all hit me and I'll be absolutely ecstatic.  I was so wrong...

The tyre saga :
To make a long story short, I need to put a new set off tyres on in Morocco.  I've read on the forums that lots of guys DHL their tyres across, so I though great plan.  Just more than a week ago I took the tyres to DHL and they quoted me more than £200.  ''No way,''  I thought. They are not even worth that much.  I'd rather load them myself,  and carry a bit off extra weight to Morocco.  Big mistake.  Bike was sooo top heavy.  The first time I stopped to fill up it wouldn't stay on the side stand, wanted to fall over.  Some stranger actually helped me put the bike on it centre stand.  Dangerous!!  So after some soul searching and swallowing my pride, I loaded the tires off at DHL.  My safety is more important than £200. 

Between the tyre sage and getting the weight off my luggage completely wrong I was actually gutted when I left London.  Bike was handling like a beached whale.   Months off planning for what??

After DHL I hopped on the overnight very at Portsmouth.  Slept on the floor with my jacket for a blanket.  Everything was locked up with the bike in the cargo hold.  Arrived in St Malo this am and hit the road to Bordeaux.  Arriving in Bordeaux,I spent about 2 hours trying to find the campsite.  Google maps and my GPS both sent me to different places, neither off wich was the campsite,  Found it by accident just as I was about to give up and look for a hotel.  How ironic.

Pure relief because I was desperate to hit the road.  Scared something was going to stop the trip from happening.  Mentally, I was ready to leave weeks ago.  The relief came today, when it sunk in that I have actually started my adventure.  Nothing to cure the blues like a good day on the road.  Nothing exciting, miles and miles of tarmac.  But I did good miles, and the bike runs like a dream. Every bit gets me closer to Africa!!!  Today was the first time I actually got some butterflies, feels good.

Worst part for the last few days : Weight issues.
Best part :  First shower and beer after 36hrs of traveling.

Friday, 2 September 2011

I'm off...

Guys, I'm off.  Was chaos this am.  Decided last minute that I still needed to get rid of some stuff, so repacked again.  Is looking loads better, but am still over loaded.  This is the most stuff I'll have for the whole trip.  Sure lots will go as I see what is being used and what not.

Just want to say thank you for all the words of encouragement.


Thursday, 1 September 2011

Blog Going Live

I'm about to send the blog details out to everyone.  Please read and pass on to people who would be interested. And donate to the charity!!!  (Any bugs or gremlins please let me know) Sorry for taking so long, but it has been a manic.  I had the last three weeks off from work, thought it would give me enough time to leisurely finish my last bit off planning and give me some time to chill out and prepare for the journey ahead.  Was not the case.  Every day was filled with a long list of things to do, and never ending admin.  Amazing that admin can keep you so busy.  I have not had the time to sit down and think about what I want to achieve or get out off the journey, but am sure hours and hours alone on a bike will quickly remedy that.

I am leaving tomorrow morning.  Not much left to do. Bike had quick service this morning.  Last packet arrived  couple minutes ago.  Few last things to buy this afternoon. And then the BIG PACK starts.  I have to try and fit most things on my poor bike.  Am sure a lot of my essential items will have to stay.  It's going to be lethal. Fingers crossed I don't have to leave to much behind.

Africa Solo

I've had a couple of questions of what it is going to be like to travel through Africa on my own.  Best answer is... I have no idea...  Part of the mystery!!

But there are couple of books of guys who have done the same route alone.  They did it a few years ago, so was a lot tougher than it is to do now.  But it will give you some idea of what I think I'm going to go through.

They are:

  • Running with the moon by Jonny Bealby
  • Africa Brew Ha-Ha by Alan Whelan

Lastly there is a Saffa who went around Africa alone on a bicycle.  He had to go through every coastal country.  Phenomenal read and  MASSIVE inspiration.
  • Around Africa on my bicycle by Riaan Manser  (Dad please read this!!!)

Happy reading.