We made it across the border to Senegal, and it was surprisingly easy. Only took about two and a half hours. Breeze for what is supposed to be one of the longer crossings in Africa. We did cross late in the afternoon, which might have helped.
There are two main crossings between Mauritania and Senegal. The main one is the Rosso crossing, which is supposed to be the most corrupt and aggressive. The other one, Diamey crossing, is about 100km away, but this is on a gravel road, and not always accessible. Also corrupt but not aggressive. We decided to chance the gravel road. Was a good decision.
About 25 kilometres from the gravel road we had our first corrupt encounter for the day. About 500 meters after passing a police check point we got stopped by an single policeman (Not unusual, we once got stopped 3 times in less than a kilometre.). Things looked a bit odd, because he was alone, had no shelter, vehicle or log book and he was VERY aggressive from the start. Completely opposite to the other police stops in Mauritania. Firstly he wanted our passports straight away, where the other cops only wanted copies so we refused and gave him copies. This pissed him off and he went into a long speech about not allowing us to cross the border, and then something about needing insurance from him (for Senegal), and using his friends to help us cross the border otherwise we would be turned back. At this point I remembered something similar I read ages ago on a forum (civilian posing as cop and wanting bribes), and couldn't help laughing out loud, and telling Morton he is a fake. Mistake. Man, did this make him angry!! He then shouted at us for about 10 minutes promising us we will not get across the border and he will make sure we go to jail. He get on yelling at me 'You will pay Euro, You will pay Euro,' and pointing at his holstered gun. We sat on the bikes refusing to get off, or handing over our passports which made him phone for backup. We think. Don't think he was on the phone long enough to make a real call. We waited about 5 more minutes listening to his charade, and decided enough is enough. Morton said a friendly goodbye. we started our bikes and took off. I think not to bad for first proper aggressive encounter. Followed most off the rules from Trailquest, didn't hand over originals, staying on the bikes etc. I think laughing at the guy wasn't very clever, but the moment it dawned on me that he was fake I had such a huge feeling off relief that I couldn't help laughing
The gravel road to Diamey crossing was loads off fun. Initially loads of loose deep sand with huge pot holes, very hard work on the bike, but great. This then smoothed out and became allot easier. We where very lucky that it has been dry. Half of the road goes through wetlands, and would have been a mud bath if it rained recently. You could see huge ditches, and ruts where the vehicles got stuck after the last rains. Phew, very lucky. This could have kept us busy for a day or two if it was wet.
The Mauritanian side of the border crossing ended up being the most corrupt. Firstly the customs guy wanted 10 Euro's each to stamp our bikes out off the country. We initially refused, saying we didn't pay to bring them in why should we pay to let them out (We actually did pay to get the bikes in but the money went straight into the guys pocket)? He said the money is for the stamp and standard in Africa. We said there is no receipt and thus its corrupt, and he said the stamp is the receipt. This went on for about 40 minutes in a combination off broken French, English and Spanish. Quite amusing. In the end we saw all the locals where paying (money went straight into a drawer with loads off cash), so we said we will pay if we get a receipt. Again he said the stamp is the receipt. At this point I said there is nothing about 10 Euro's on the stamp, I want a receipt which says 10 Euro's received. WOW, what a mistake. This guy went off on a 10 minute yelling charade, something about his integrity, blah, blah, blah, to the point he started foaming at the mouth. At this point I politely left his office and Morton paid the bribe.
Next was Police clearance. Very friendly and chatty guy, made lots off jokes and quickly stamped our passports. Then he wanted 10 Euro's each to be able to cross the border. It was past 18:00 and according to him you then have to pay to cross or wait until the next morning. Morton refused to pay, and walked out. I didn't want to spend the night on the border, so paid him 5 Euro, straight into his pocket. Am sure we could have crossed without paying, but I was eager to cross the border that night.
The Senegal side off the crossing was phenomenally easy. We had to pay 7 Euro each for a guy to lift a boom so we can get into the Senegal side. Ridiculous but its pay or stay in no-mans land. He had a cash book and receipts. Legit I guess. The police wanted 10 Euro each for stamping our passports. Refused. No problem. Customs we had to pay to let the bikes enter the country. This time 100% legit, with proper receipts etc. We knew we would have to pay this. Compared to the Mauritanian side the Senegalese where very friendly and helpful. All in all actually a pleasant border crossing. It only cost us 60 Euro between the two off us. We met people who spend 2-300 Euro to get a car across, so not to bad. Whoop whoop.
There are two main crossings between Mauritania and Senegal. The main one is the Rosso crossing, which is supposed to be the most corrupt and aggressive. The other one, Diamey crossing, is about 100km away, but this is on a gravel road, and not always accessible. Also corrupt but not aggressive. We decided to chance the gravel road. Was a good decision.
About 25 kilometres from the gravel road we had our first corrupt encounter for the day. About 500 meters after passing a police check point we got stopped by an single policeman (Not unusual, we once got stopped 3 times in less than a kilometre.). Things looked a bit odd, because he was alone, had no shelter, vehicle or log book and he was VERY aggressive from the start. Completely opposite to the other police stops in Mauritania. Firstly he wanted our passports straight away, where the other cops only wanted copies so we refused and gave him copies. This pissed him off and he went into a long speech about not allowing us to cross the border, and then something about needing insurance from him (for Senegal), and using his friends to help us cross the border otherwise we would be turned back. At this point I remembered something similar I read ages ago on a forum (civilian posing as cop and wanting bribes), and couldn't help laughing out loud, and telling Morton he is a fake. Mistake. Man, did this make him angry!! He then shouted at us for about 10 minutes promising us we will not get across the border and he will make sure we go to jail. He get on yelling at me 'You will pay Euro, You will pay Euro,' and pointing at his holstered gun. We sat on the bikes refusing to get off, or handing over our passports which made him phone for backup. We think. Don't think he was on the phone long enough to make a real call. We waited about 5 more minutes listening to his charade, and decided enough is enough. Morton said a friendly goodbye. we started our bikes and took off. I think not to bad for first proper aggressive encounter. Followed most off the rules from Trailquest, didn't hand over originals, staying on the bikes etc. I think laughing at the guy wasn't very clever, but the moment it dawned on me that he was fake I had such a huge feeling off relief that I couldn't help laughing
The gravel road to Diamey crossing was loads off fun. Initially loads of loose deep sand with huge pot holes, very hard work on the bike, but great. This then smoothed out and became allot easier. We where very lucky that it has been dry. Half of the road goes through wetlands, and would have been a mud bath if it rained recently. You could see huge ditches, and ruts where the vehicles got stuck after the last rains. Phew, very lucky. This could have kept us busy for a day or two if it was wet.
The Mauritanian side of the border crossing ended up being the most corrupt. Firstly the customs guy wanted 10 Euro's each to stamp our bikes out off the country. We initially refused, saying we didn't pay to bring them in why should we pay to let them out (We actually did pay to get the bikes in but the money went straight into the guys pocket)? He said the money is for the stamp and standard in Africa. We said there is no receipt and thus its corrupt, and he said the stamp is the receipt. This went on for about 40 minutes in a combination off broken French, English and Spanish. Quite amusing. In the end we saw all the locals where paying (money went straight into a drawer with loads off cash), so we said we will pay if we get a receipt. Again he said the stamp is the receipt. At this point I said there is nothing about 10 Euro's on the stamp, I want a receipt which says 10 Euro's received. WOW, what a mistake. This guy went off on a 10 minute yelling charade, something about his integrity, blah, blah, blah, to the point he started foaming at the mouth. At this point I politely left his office and Morton paid the bribe.
Next was Police clearance. Very friendly and chatty guy, made lots off jokes and quickly stamped our passports. Then he wanted 10 Euro's each to be able to cross the border. It was past 18:00 and according to him you then have to pay to cross or wait until the next morning. Morton refused to pay, and walked out. I didn't want to spend the night on the border, so paid him 5 Euro, straight into his pocket. Am sure we could have crossed without paying, but I was eager to cross the border that night.
The Senegal side off the crossing was phenomenally easy. We had to pay 7 Euro each for a guy to lift a boom so we can get into the Senegal side. Ridiculous but its pay or stay in no-mans land. He had a cash book and receipts. Legit I guess. The police wanted 10 Euro each for stamping our passports. Refused. No problem. Customs we had to pay to let the bikes enter the country. This time 100% legit, with proper receipts etc. We knew we would have to pay this. Compared to the Mauritanian side the Senegalese where very friendly and helpful. All in all actually a pleasant border crossing. It only cost us 60 Euro between the two off us. We met people who spend 2-300 Euro to get a car across, so not to bad. Whoop whoop.
Brilliant!!
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