World's friendliest gendarmerie

After crossing the border into Mauritania we decided to make a fast run for the capital and some visas.  We were hoping to get there by 12:00 Thursday (before they close for lunch) to hand in the visa applications and then have them ready for pick-up on Friday.  Leaving the weekend open for some more travelling.  As with al African plans this was not to be...

Tiny village next to main road

Wild camping

For the first hour or so after the border we had a phenomenal strong wind from the side.  We got battered all over the road and had a really hard time keeping up some speed and actually making some headway.  To the point were we where so shattered that we decided to call it a day.  There was nothing even remotely resembling a village so our first night of wild camping was to be.   Whoop, whoop. What a good choice.  Drove a few kilometres off road and camped in the middle of nowhere.  Only some small lights from few shacks on the horizon, showed that we where somewhere in the vicinity of civilization.  It was absolutely gorgeous,  especially the stars.  I have not seen stars so bright and numerous for a very long time.. 

Friendly police

Next morning was supposed to be a quick 200km to get to the embassies, but with numerous check points dotted along the way there was no way we would be there by closing time (12:00).   We where on the point off getting irritated with all the check points when we decided to stop for breakfast, and here one off the gendarmerie came and spoke to us.  Initially I was quite sceptical, and in Moroccan mode thinking 'what does he want know.'  I couldn't have been more wrong, he actually just wanted to chat and practice some English. He also explained to us that all the checkpoints was to keep the tourists safe.  They actually radio our positions ahead so the next check point will be on the look out for us, and they will go looking for you if you don't show ( Mauritania had some bad press and are now trying very very hard to show tourists it is a safe country).  I thought this was phenomenal (especially for Africa) and we had a complete change of attitude towards the checkpoints.  This must have shown because we had so much fun along the road from there on,  we stopped and chatted with the guards, made jokes, took photos, drank tea, and shared candy to the point that we didn't arrive in the capital until much later that day.  And missing all the embassies.  To make matters even worse this is a strict muslim country so Friday and Saturday is weekend.  We couldn't do anything until the Sunday morning.  All worth it though.  The friendliness off the Mauritanian people was just the antidote we needed after Morocco.

Mauritania is a very poor country, the capital looks like a dump.  It's dirty, buildings are falling apart and there is rubbish everywhere.  The roads are nearly empty,  with only a few shacks scattered along the way.  I was really surprised at the vast areas that where nearly empty.  It is a lot greener than Morocco so I was expecting more people and bigger villages.  Somehow it has really grown on me.  The few days we spent in the capital was great.  A bit frustrating because you would rather be on the road, but still great.  The people are very friendly and inquisitive, and I really enjoyed it.  It was nice to have people talk to you because they wanted to and not because they where trying to sell you some tour or show you their brothers lovely shop.  We still had some people try very hard to sell us stuff, but with a different mindset from the Moroccans. The best of these was a guy who tried to sell us some watches and shades.  From the moment he walked towards us you could see from his facial expression he was 100% certain of a sale.  When we said 'no'  his whole face just dropped to utter disappointment.  He just couldn't believe we where not interested.  How can we not be interested in European goods? The way his face changed was just unforgeable. But he stayed friendly. He actually waited for us outside the restaurant for 30 minutes, just to make sure we really didn't want anything.  Brilliant.  But still no sale.

Tonight we went to one off the biggest fish markets in this area, and got some dirt cheap lobster.  Nice little braai for a last night in Nouakchott.  Was very tasty.

Tomorrow we head for the Mauritania-Senegal border.  Well known to be one off the most corrupt and mentally taxing border posts in Africa. Can easily take 4-6 hours, and I've met overlanders in Mauritania who have actually slept on the border because they refused to pay the numerous bribes. People skip Senegal just to miss this border. Morton and I have a bet on to see who is going to pay the least amount off bribes.  Fingers crossed I win!! Winner gets cold beer and haven't had any for weeks!!