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Bed crawling with ants |
Senegal has been absolutely fantastic. Entering it, we finally felt like we where in the real Africa. Loud colours, lots of music and very friendly people. Smiling faces everywhere. We really loved it. The roads are slowly getting worse, and the bikes love it more. Even the police are friendly, we did not get stopped once at any road blocks, everyone just let us pass. Amazing!! The bit I saw off St Louis looks so interesting, and we would have loved to spend more time there, but we had admin to sort out for the bikes. They only give you 48 hours to get from the border to Dakar, where we needed to get some papers stamped for the bikes. Again something that should not have taken long, but it took us more than half a day. I ended up in the port commander's office trying to find the right people. Everyone is really helpful, but have no clue as what to do. You would think we are the first people to take bikes into Senegal, the home of the Paris-Dakar Rally.
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Breakfast in heaven |
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Slave monument, Dakar |
The only thing I struggled with in Senegal was the heat and humidity. OUCH!! The humidity has slowly been building as we have been moving south. It is unbelievable. To the point where it is useless to try and do anything. The moment you move you are dripping with sweat. The only way to get some relief is to cover miles on the bike. As long as you are moving it is bearable, but 5 minutes after stopping you are soaked. I initially thought we would miss the humidity because the rainy season just ended, but according to the locals the ground gets so soaked that it takes about 2 months for the humidity to come down. The dry heat off the desert is much easier to deal with.
In Dakar we had our first experience off the worlds oldest profession. Prostitution. The accommodation in Dakar is really expensive compared to everything so far, so I was negotiating really hard for a discount. The manager refused but said the girl in reception comes free with the room. Morton and I laughed and thought nothing off it, went to our bungalow and unpacked the bikes. 10 minutes later there was a knock on the door, and it was the girl, wanting to come in. Luckily Morton was quick to say 'no thanks' and close the door. She was half way in before the door was even properly open. WOW!! Once the shock subsided we had a good laugh.
We didn't stay long in Dakar. The humidity was even worse than the rest off Senegal, so we decided to keep moving rather than sit and suffer in our rooms. It was impossible to do anything outside. Again, it looks like a very interesting city, with loads off history and I would have loved to see more but we heard the humidity is better in Gambia so decided to head there.
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Gorgeous road |
Gambia has been fantastic. Still hot and humid as hell, but for some reason less than North Senegal. Was 32 degrees in the shade by 10 am yesterday, with high humidity so still not a walk in the park, but after Senegal its a relief. Gambia is the friendliest country so far, and people speak English. Such a big difference being able to have normal conversations with people. It's like being released from jail. Verbal freedom.
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Fishing village, in the water |
Here we got to see how the upgraded version of prostitution works. It all started when we went to the beach for a couple of bears and some sun. I saw a Gambian guy in on the beach, standing there for hours pretending to do exercises, and poses showing off his muscles. He was unbelievably cut, every muscle group perfectly visible. But not really doing much, just standing there showing off. I later noticed a few hundred meters away was another guy doing a combination of yoga and exercises, and past him a guy splashing in the shallows doing the whole surfer act. Weird!! Turns out these guys are 'bumsters,' they hang out around the tourist hotels and show off their goods. The idea is to get a western girlfriend, and access to her funds, but fee for service is the other available options. Every bumster tries to act out a stereo type that he thinks the girls like. Hilarious to see, especially once you know its all a act. But it works, saw loads off bumsters walking around with their tourist girlfriends.
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Relics of worse times |
Next is the girls. They are a little more subtle, but not much. They befriend the older male tourists, show them the local hangouts, introduce them to some friends, and show them how great Gambia is. Amazing to see how the tourists melt from a little flattery by a hot young girl. Again the main mission is to work your way into a long term relationship, where you get funds regularly, but fee for service is always available. The locals we spoke to are very open about their western partners that send money monthly. They live a good life from few hundred Euro a month, and need to do very little work. The weird part is that the locals we spoke to dont see it as prostitution, but as entertaining tourists with a bonus on the side. A great way to make a living. Before the trip I knew prostitution is big business in Africa, but not for one second I thought it would be so open and accepted. And this among relatively well off young people. Huge culture shock.
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First ferry crossing |
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Perfect road
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Perfect Coke add |
Dude, lovin' every post. Amazing adventure, well written and fantastic photos, keep it up! Also, somehow, whenever I read your posts my internal monologue puts on your SA accent which adds to the atmosphere.
ReplyDeleteF
sit biekie fotos op van die receptionist llaat ons kan sien of sy nie buite jul liga is nie
ReplyDeleteAs Morton nie gese het 'no thanks' sou jy 'yes thanks' gese het?!
ReplyDeleteHi there! Bart Willemse got me onto your site since we have something in common!
ReplyDeleteI rode a similar route in 2006 sadly my site is no longer running but if I may provide a couple of suggestions they would be to include the coastal route through Angola.If you haven't organised your Visa to Angola as yet I would NOT DELAY! Go to the Angolan Embassy in Dakar since they get particularly shirty about visas..
I know it's a mission to drive back from Gambia but It might be well worth it.Not sure what the status quo is right now but when I did the trip it was the easiest place to sort out the Angolan Visa and they still gave Us a going over!What a beautiful trip though bro
Other fantastic highlights I could encourage you to do would be the line through Cameroun's extreme north,Truly special geographically and culturally as that is really an axis of cultural diversity. I would try to spend time in Gabon's large areas of protected forest( research this and spend the money to do it properly) as this forest will not be pristine for ever-try find the surfing hippos!
Super happy to see you state that africa is about the journey and not the destination-smacked it head on- take time to do what you gonna do even if you're tired!Go the longer route and don't avoid the difficult routes- they are what your trip is about.
If you have any q's swing an email my way at ultracarve27@yahoo.com
Best regards, keep the rubber side down
Mark Fleming
Mark, thanks a lot for the advice. Will use it. I am seriously considering northern Cameroon, but I also want to do the Mamfe-Ekok road. It has become legendary, and I think missing it would be like going to Paris and ignoring the Eiffel tower. Time is also a factor but I want to try and spend as much time as possible in central Africa.
ReplyDeleteThe visas for Angola are a bit of a nightmare. For people coming from the north they only issue 5 day transit visas. But I will definitely try my best. The one option people are using is to fly to SA and pick up a 30 day tourist visa and then fly back. I would love to do Angola properly so will see what things are like. The Nigerian visas have also recently become a hassle, my next big mission.
Awsome pics!!! Had to giggle at the perfect coke advert... and the single biker road block...Glad to hear all is going well... L & A
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